By James WestcottDescending through the clouds over Iceland, the land looks like cauliflower, or something growing in a giant petri dish. Driving from the airport, which is basically out in the wilderness a dozen or so miles from Reykjavik, the interminable rockiness of the earth becomes obvious: rock everywhere, volcanic black gnawed and gnarly masses smeared with a thin film of moss, stretching back to the horizon in incredible sliding perspective (as you drive by), before it's stopped short by a wall of squat, tempting mountains. I'm here for the Reykjavik Art Festival, which began last night, and my knee-jerk thought riding through the countryside was: how does culture, let alone a thriving triennial of visual art (this is the second after Bjorn Roth (son of Dieter) and Jessica Morgan's effort in 2005) get a toe-hold here in the midst of such overwhelming, isolating and intimidating nature?
Easy. At the packed opening reception for the festival, hosted by the Reykjavik Art Museum (a mixture of brutalist concrete and steel-and-glass elegance), Hans Urlich Obrist speculated that Iceland is possibly the only country in the world where the president and his wife would come to a performance by Emily Wardill, the emerging London-based film artist. President Ólafur Ragnar Grímsson – a big supporter of the arts – was indeed one of those watching in the small auditorium as Wardill kicked off the crowning event of the festival, Obrist and Olafur Eliasson's Experiment Marathon. This is a new iteration of the exhilarating event – a series of presentations, performances and interactions – that was first tried out in the
Serpentine pavilion during Frieze last year. (And Obrist revealed that this summer's marathon at the Serpentine will be a Manifesto Marathon – for an era without manifestos – inside Frank Gehry's pavilion.)
Wardill's performance was based on a story of a memory she has of a series of lasers guarding a diamond from robbery. It's from a film, but what film?
Pink Panther?
Oceans 11 and
12? None of these fitted her memory, she narrated, so she made the half-remembered film herself – and projected it onto the screen here. Meanwhile someone in a black outfit under pulsing white light was playing the amazing boxing game on the Nintendo Wii. (My companion noted that it must be the first time a Wii has been used in an artwork.) She was boxing either very listlessly or expertly, slowly and robotically waving the magic Wii wand. (In the participatory spirit of the event, I was desperate to get up there and show her how it's done: keep your guard up, sway left to right etc.)
A performer plays Nintendo Wii boxing, wearing a black suit and under a pulsing white light during Emily Wardill's Experiment Marathon performanceWardill's story morphed into a tale about Descartes' daughter and how devastated he was when she disappeared at sea. It was a story about rationality versus emotion, about the importance of embodiment, fantasy, memory and action together with thinking – foundational themes of the Experiment Marathon itself, which will take place in full on Friday and Sunday.
After a reception by the mayor, another art-friendly figure, there was a concert of precise (one might uncharitably say precious) whirring, warbling and spacey sounds using saws, glasses, strings, horns and beats from Amiina, Kippi and friends in Wonderland (some of those friends were apparently members of Sigur Ros). It was sweet and soporific, occasionally foot-tapping, but ultimately locked in ascending loops that never quite achieve climax. Tris Vonna-Michell (who is performing in the marathon on Sunday), later accused me of getting lost in the music and dreaming of dolphins.
Amiina, Kippi and friends in Wonderland in concert at the Reykjavik Art MuseumRumours of a DJ set by Bjork, mainly circulated on very shaky foundations by myself, led us to a small club in the town centre where in fact we were treated to the polar opposite of Kippi et al: grinding noise genius
Florian Hecker, who cranks out elaborate industrial computer crunching sounds, which, like jazz, is probably not as free-form as it sounds. Listening to his music feels like your brain is being blasted with a power hose, and not only your brain but your belly too – a fully-body irrigation.
(It also sounds like the kind of music Chris Morris said kids listen to while on
cake). It was evidently too much for one bold woman, who stumbled rather drunkenly over to Hecker's menacing computer and tried to slam it shut; when he held it open, she pawed at the keyboard desperately,
please stop! Unfortunately he did, but at least it meant we could leave relatively early in preparation for the Experiment Marathon the next day (seven hours of it, starting at 10am!)
Check back here over the weekend for updates...
The Experiment Marathon kicked off with what should be a warning of the dangers of mixing art and science in a symposium (or science fair) setting: a presentation by Thorstein I. Sigfusson about electrolysing water in fuel cells, which used assistants dressed up in shiny costumes and dancing around like atoms to demonstrate the process (which still remained inscrutable to me). It was silly even in its knowing silliness. It was interesting though in its reference to Iceland's cheap energy sources: geothermal power (harnasing the hot water that bubbles beneath the earth to heat all of Reykjavik) and hydroelectric. Both of which are extremely problematic though, a topic to which we'll return.
Next up: Israel Rosenfield, a lecturer and writer on neuroscience, who gave a presentation about body image – "how my brain perceives myself". Chiming with Olafur Eliasson's introductory statement that "The challenge today is not just to think but to act", Rosenfield explained how the classical separate scientific models of motor (thinking) and sensory (feeling) brain activity have now been shown to work in unison. Rob Storr's Venice Biennale title, Think With the Senses, Feel with the Mind, aptly summed up the spirit of the morning's predominantly scientific presentations on the power of game-playing and cooperation in artificial intelligence (Luc Steels), prosthetic science (Hilmar B. Janusson), the fact that our brains process only a tiny part of the full colour spectrum (Kristjan Leosson), and how a positive emotion can trigger a cataplectic attack (ie. ROFL (that's Rolling on Floor Laughing, for those of you who aren't web nerds). It was a classic Obristian polyphony of voices, though they felt like samplers and weren't yet adding up to more than the sum of their parts.
Unlike at the drink-supplied opening of the festival the night before, turnout for leg one of the marathon (to be concluded on Sunday) was pretty poor, and many of the people there were also at the London version. This one lacked the cumulative intensity generated inside Eliasson and Kjetil Thorsen's pavilion last October: the march into the night, the circular arena, the nowhere-else-to-go-ness of it.
What's more, in all this happy phenomenology, sharpening of perception, and pop-science curiosity about the unification of body and brain, as fun and revelatory as it is, what gets lost along the way somehow is politics. With the exception of Pedro Reyes' presentation about his website ideasforiraqw.org there was very little explicit political thinking. It's hard to inject politics into phenomenology, I guess.
A couple of afternoon highlights were a haunting and sad performance by legendary filmmaker Jonas Mekas, in which it wasn't clear which event was a desperate reminiscence and which was contemporary, the claustrophobic video loop of the lonely debilitated old mad or the live action of a Hemingway-esque hearty feast among friends.
Later, Jimmie Durham performed in his characteristic way, where you’re unsure whether or not if gives a damn about whether anyone is watching or not. He arrayed some objects on the table and staged a telephone call in which someone was apparently giving dodgy advice. Here’s what happened next:
artreview.com
Later in the day we visited an exhibition at the Start Art Gallery by Iceland's 2003 Venice Biennale representative, Rúrí. One of her videos told how a new hydroelectric dam in Upptyppingar, near Askja, in the north of the island, had created manmade earthquakes and volcanic activity since the new reservoir had placed intolerable new pressure on the fault line over which it sits.
Later on we met an activist from New York who now lives in Reykjavik to protest with Saving Iceland, among other things, the construction of more aluminium smelters. Smelting is an energy-intensive and highly polluting industry, and companies like ALCOA are attracted here because of the cheap geothermal and hydrolectric energy -- thus putting pressure on the government to build more dams like the one above.
That evening we went to an exhibition of Croatian contemporary art in the gallery at the headquarters of Reykjavik Energy, which has been a target of protesters for helping to power the aluminium smelters and apparently mismanaging its geothermal plants. There was a performance for the invited guests by Slaven Tolj, who very slowly, gently and intently made two small curved cuts in his cheeks with a razorblade. It was horrible to watch, for two reasons that went beyond the basic visceral repugnance of the act. Gina Pane has done it before – this is not to be jaded about it, but if you're going to do something so demonstrative and radical there needs to be a very good and clear concept for it and preferably an original one, none of which was apparent in Tolj's performance. Secondly it was such a waste to do it here in the soaring lobby of the power company to a small polite crowd of disinterested people nibbling on cheese and fruit. No, it did not jolt anyone into empathic action. No one shouted out 'Not the face!', as they did with Pane. The performance hardly registered in fact, and people went back to nibbling and gazing at Hreinn Friðfinnsson's enourmous Foucault's Pendulum hanging from the ceiling. Now, if the performance had been a protest against Reykjavik Energy…